Of ancient foundation, the Basilica Papale di San Paolo fuori le Mura (Papal Basilica of St Paul Outside the Walls) stands on the site of what is believed to be the burial place of St Paul the Apostle.
On the night of July 15th/16th 1823, the church was largely destroyed by a fire, which broke out in the roof. Pope Leo XII (r. 1823-28) ordered its immediate reconstruction, which took thirty years.
St Paul by Giuseppe Obici
The Basilica is preceded by a great quadriporticus made up of 146 monolithic granite columns. The capitals of the columns in front of the church sport the head of St Paul. The colossal statue of St Paul is the work of Giuseppe Obici (1807-78). He holds aloft a sword, the instrument of his martyrdom. The inscription on the pedestal proclaims: PREDICATORI VERITATIS DOCTORI GENTIVM (To the preacher of the truth, to the teacher of the Gentiles).
St Luke by Francesco Fabi-Altini
The pedestals in the four corners of the quadriporticusare empty apart from one. On it stands a marble statue of Saint Luke by Francesco Fabi-Altini (1830-1906). Why is Luke the only one of the four evangelists to be represented with Paul? One explanation is that in the second letter to Timothy Paul writes: 'Luca est mecum solus' ('Only Luke is with me', 2 Timothy 4:11, KJV).
Facade Mosaics
The mosaics that adorn the facade were designed by Filippo Agricola and Nicola Consoni and created between 1854 and 1878 . Christ sits between St Peter and St Paul. Below is the Lamb of God on the mountain of Paradise. The four rivers flowing from it symbolise the gospels, and the twelve lambs drinking from the rivers symbolise the Apostles. The cities to either side are Jerusalem and Bethlehem. The lowest section shows the Old Testament Prophets Isaiah, Jeremiah, Ezekiel and Daniel.
Central Door by Antonio Maraini
The church has five doors. The central door (1931) is the work of Antonio Maraini (1886-1963). The twelve bronze reliefs depict scenes from the lives of St Peter and St Paul.
St Peter
St Paul
To either side of the door are statues of St Peter and St Paul, the work of Gregorio Zappalà (1833-1908).
Holy Door
To the right of the main door is the Porta Santa (Holy Door), which is only open during Holy Years. It was executed by Enrico Manfrini (1917-2004) and installed in the Holy Year of 2000.
Porta Bizantina
On the inside of the Holy Dooris the Porta Bizantina. From Greek and Latin inscriptions, we know that the door was cast in Constantinople (Byzantium), in 1070. Designed by an artist named Theodore, it was donated by Consul Pantaleone of Amalfi, when the Monastery of St. Paul was governed by Abbot Hildelbrand of Soana, the future Pope Gregory VII (r. 1073-85).
It was initially placed in the main entrance of the Basilica, but was severely damaged in the fire of 1823. Enclosed in an elegant gilded bronze frame, the fifty-four panels illustrate twelve scenes from the life of Christ, the twelve apostles, the twelve representations of their martyrdom, twelve prophets, two eagles, two crosses, and two panels with dedicatory inscriptions, all in silver damascening.
To the left of the main door is the Porta Paolina, with bas-reliefs by Guido Veroi (1926-2013).
Nave
The nave and four aisles are made up of eighty colossal granite columns.
Coat of arms of Pope Pius IX
The splendid wooden ceiling sports the coat of arms of Pope Pius IX (r. 1846-78).
St Peter by Ignazio Jacometti
St Paul by Salvatore Revelli
At the top of the nave stand statues of St Peter and St Paul, the work, respectively, of Ignazio Jacometti (1819-83) and Salvatore Revelli (1816-59).
Martyrdom of St Stephen by Pietro Galgliardi
The paintings between the windows, in the upper part of the nave, depict scenes from the life of St Paul. The cycle begins in the right transept with the Martyrdom of St Stephen,at which St Paul (as Saul) first makes an appearance, and ends with his own martyrdom (left transept).
Martyrdom of St Paul by Filippo Baldi
The thirty-six frescoes took twenty-two artists three years to complete (1857 to 1860).
Mosaic of St Peter
Under the paintings are images in mosaic of all the popes from St Peter to the present day. The cycle starts in the right transept and ends at the top of the right inner aisle.
Triumphal Arch
The triumphal arch, a relic of the old church, sports much-restored mosaics. A somewhat grim-faced Christ makes a blessing in the Greek manner. The upper inscription proclaims: TEODOSIVS CEPIT PERFECIT ONORIVS AVLAM DOCTORIS MVNDI SACRATAM CORPORE PAVLI (Theodosius started the church, Honorius completed it. It is made sacred by the body of Paul, the teacher of the world). The lower inscription reads: PLACIDAE PIA MENS OPERIS DECVS HOMNE PATERNI GAVDET PONTIFICIS STVDIO SPLENDERE LEONIS (The pious heart of Placidia rejoices that all the splendour of her father's undertaking shines bright through the seal of the Pontiff Leo).
Confessio
The Confessio, which is below the high altar, is the most sacred spot in the basilica, as it is the nearest one can get to the actual tomb of St Paul. The Confessio is reached by a double staircase.
Gothic Canopy (1285) by Arnolfo di Cambio
The beautiful gothic canopy (1285) over the high altar is the signed work of Arnolfo di Cambio. He was assisted by a colleague named simply as Petro ('cum suo socio Petro'), who has been identified as Pietro di Oderisio.
Paschal Candlestick
The 12th century Paschal Candlestick, which stands to the right of the high altar, has been attributed to Nicola D'Angelo and Pietro Vassalletto. The decoration on the shaft depicts seven scenes from Christ's Passion and Resurrection: Christ Before Caiaphas, the Mocking of Christ, Christ Before Pilate, Pilate Washing his hands, The Crucifixion, The Resurrection and The Ascension. The figure of Christ on the cross is depicted clothed in a tunic, a very ancient iconographic tradition, which was dying out at the time when the candlestick was carved.
Apse
The mosaic in the apse was commissioned by Pope Honorius (r. 1216-27), who appears as the tiny figure genuflecting at the feet of Christ. Christ is flanked on his right side by St Paul and St Luke and on his left by St Peter and St Andrew. Beneath him is a throne with the instruments of the Passion and a jewelled cross. This is known as the etimasia, the throne prepared for the Second Coming.
Altar of the Assumption
At the end of the right transept is the Altar of the Assumption of Mary. The altarpiece is a mosaic copy of a painting by Guilio Romano (c. 1499-1546) and Giovan Francesco Penni (1488-1528), two assistants of Raphael (1483-1520), which is now in the Vatican Museums. The original painting was made up of two parts: the Coronation of the Virgin by Romano and The Assumption of Mary by Penni.
The two statues are St Benedict by Filippo Gnaccarini and St Scholastica by Felice Baini.
Altar of the Conversion
At the end of the left transept is the Altar of the Conversion of St Paul. The altarpiece is by Vincenzo Camuccini (1771-1844).
The two statues are Pope St Gregory the Great by Francesco Massimiliano Laboureur (1767-1831) and St Bernard of Clairvaux by Achille Stocchi.
Chapel of St Benedict
There are four large enclosed chapels flanking the apse. The two on the left are the Chapel of St Stephen and the Chapel of the Blessed Sacrament. The two on the right are the Chapel of St Lawrence and the Chapel of St Benedict.
The Chapel of St Benedict was designed by the architect Luigi Poletti (1792-1869). The statue of the saint is by Pietro Tenerani (1789-1869).
Holy Water Stoup by Pietro Galli
Outside the chapel is an interesting holy water stoup by the Roman sculptor Pietro Galli (1804-77).
Cloister
The beautiful 13th century cloistersurvived the fire and should not be missed.
Gregorian Portico
The bell-tower was designed by Luigi Poletti.
Pope Gregory XVI by Rinaldo Rinaldi
Poletti also designed what is known as the Gregorian Portico on the north side of the church. Built during the reign of Pope Gregory XVI (r. 1831-46), it incorporates 12 marble columns from the old basilica. The statue of Pope Gregory XVI is by Rinaldo Rinaldi (1793-1873), a pupil of Antonio Canova.