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Walking Tours of Rome

San Clemente


Map
Church of San Clemente, Rome
San Clemente

Few places better exemplify the nature of Rome as a city of many layers than the church of San Clemente. Under the 12th century church, at a depth of six metres (twenty feet), sits a 4th century church. Below this, at a depth of about nine metres (thirty feet), are buildings from both Republican and Imperial Rome. To visit San Clemente is to travel back in time over 2,000 years. 

San Clemente was built during the reign of Pope Paschal II (r. 1099-1118), but, for centuries, it was thought to be the church to which St Jerome referred in 392. The existence of a second church, buried under the first, went completely unsuspected until 1857 when a priest and amateur archaeologist, Father Joseph Mullooly O.P., made the discovery of his life. Father Mullooly dug through more than twenty feet of rubble to reach an earlier church, sitting almost directly beneath the present one. This was not an end to his discoveries, for below the newly excavated church, he later came across part of an insula (an ancient Roman apartment block) from the Republican era. Subsequent excavations by other archaeologists revealed a house and a mithraeum, both from the Imperial era. 

San Clemente is one of the few medieval churches in Rome to have retained its atrium or courtyard, which is entered through a 12th century portal, known as a prothyrum. On entering the church one’s eye is drawn immediately to the stunning mosaics which decorate the apse, the most beautiful to be seen anywhere in Rome. 
Nave, San Clemente, Rome
Nave
The nave is divided from the side aisles by a collection of ancient granite and marble columns. The pavement, one of the glories of the church, is laid out in a style known as Cosmatesque, after the Cosmati family, workers of marble who flourished during the 12th and 13th centuries. The style, also known as opus alexandrinum, was used most extensively for church floors, but also for pulpits, columns and episcopal thrones. The Cosmati used stones salvaged from the ruins of ancient Roman buildings to create their geometric designs. ​
Schola Cantorum, San Clemente, Rome
Schola Cantorum
Discs of porphyry and granite lead to the schola cantorum, the 6th century choir enclosure, which was rescued from the older church. It is decorated with the monogram of Pope John II (r. 533-535). The ambo on the left side and the Paschal candlestick were later additions. A marble screen separates the main body of the church from the high altar, where we find the tombs of St Clement, to whom the church is dedicated, and St Ignatius of Antioch. There is an image of an anchor (the attribute of St Clement) entwined with a cross on the canopy over the altar. At the back of the apse is an ancient throne. The bottom of the apse wall is decorated with large 14th century frescoes of Christ, the Virgin Mary and eleven of the apostles (St Matthias is missing). 
Apse mosaic, San Clemente, Rome
Apse Mosaic
However, it is the beautiful 12th century mosaics that are the glory of the church. 
Castiglione Chapel with frescoes by Masolino, church of San Clemente, Rome
Castiglione Chapel
​The second great attraction of San Clemente is the Cappella Castiglione, which can be found at the beginning of the left aisle.
Gilded wooden ceiling in the nave of church of San Clemente, Rome
Gilded Wooden Ceiling
By the advent of the 18th century, San Clemente was in a very poor state of repair. It was restored at the behest of Pope Clement XI (r. 1700–1721). The splendid wooden ceiling, which sports the pope's coat of arms, was one of the products of this restoration. The central fresco depicts the Apotheosis of St Clement, the work of Giuseppe Chiari (1654-1727). The frescoes on the upper walls of the nave depict scenes from the lives of St Clement (left wall) and St Ignatius of Antioch (right wall).  

The original 4th century basilica, and the ancient Roman remains, can all be visited. The first basilica was slightly larger than the later one, which basically replicated its design. A few frescoes from as early as the 9th century have survived. 

Underneath the 4th century basilica are the remains of two buildings, which are separated from each other by a narrow passageway. On one side of the passage is a brick insula (an ancient Roman apartment block), while on the other side are the ground-floor rooms of a mansion from the 1st century CE. The latter may have belonged to Titus Flavius Clemens, who is thought to have been executed in 95. His house might have been the venue for gatherings of Christians until the church was built in the 4th century. Clemens is not to be confused with his contemporary Pope St Clement I, to whom the church is dedicated. 

Across the passageway are the remains of a small Mithraic temple (late 2nd or early 3rd century). It consists of an ante-chamber with stone seating, a triclinium (dining-room) with a marble altar and a third chamber, which may have functioned as a room for the instruction of neophytes. The seven niches in the chamber might represent the seven stages of the initiation into Mithraism. Mithraism was a mystery religion, which was practised across the Roman Empire from the 1st to the 4th century CE. Membership was restricted to men and the religion was particularly popular with soldiers. ​​​

Gallery
Castiglione Chapel with frescoes by Masolino, church of San Clemente, Rome
Apse of church of San Clemente, Rome
Mithraeum, San Clemente, Rome
Apse of the church of San Clemente, Rome
12th century mosaics, apse of the church of San Clemente, Rome
Gilded wooden ceiling in the nave of church of San Clemente, Rome
A detail of the mosaic in the apse of the church of San Clemente, Rome
St Lawrence & St Paul, a detail of the 12th century mosaic in the apse of the church of San Clemente, Rome
St Peter & St Clement, mosaic in the apse of the church of San Clemente, Rome
A detail of the 12th century mosaic in the apse of the church of San Clemente, Rome

walking Tours of Rome

Copyright © David Lown 2001-2025 All Rights Reserved. 
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    • Fountain of the Moor
    • Fountain of the Naiads
    • Fountain of the Pantheon
    • Fountains of Piazza Farnese
    • Fountains of Piazza del Popolo
    • Fountain of Piazza Viminale
    • Fountain of Ponte Sisto
    • Fountain of the Porter
    • Fountain of the Seahorses
    • Fountain of the Triton
    • Fountain of the Tritons
    • Fountain of the Tureen
    • Fountain of the Turtles
    • Fountains of St Peter's Square
    • Fountains of the Two Seas
    • Fountains of Valle Giulia
    • Four Fountains
    • Rioni Fountains
    • Street Fountains
    • Venice Marries the Sea
  • On This Day in Rome
    • January
    • February
    • March
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    • May
    • June
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    • December
  • Churches
    • Top Ten Churches
    • Churches by Location
    • Little-known Churches
    • Cosmatesque Pavements
    • Funerary Monuments
    • Chiesa del Gesù >
      • Chapel of St Ignatius
    • Chiesa di Gesù e Maria
    • Chiesa Nuova
    • Domine Quo Vadis
    • Lateran Baptistery
    • Re Magi
    • S. Agata dei Goti
    • S. Agata in Trastevere
    • S. Agnese fuori le Mura
    • S. Agnese in Agone
    • S. Agostino
    • S. Alessio
    • S. Anastasia al Palatino
    • S. Andrea al Quirinale
    • S. Andrea della Valle
    • S. Andrea delle Fratte
    • S. Angelo in Pescheria
    • S. Anna dei Palafrenieri
    • S. Antonio dei Portoghesi
    • S. Apollinare
    • Ss. Apostoli
    • S. Balbina
    • S. Barbara dei Librai
    • S. Bartolomeo all' Isola
    • S. Benedetto in Piscinula
    • S. Bernardo alle Terme
    • S. Bibiana
    • S. Brigida
    • S. Carlo ai Catinari
    • S. Carlo al Corso
    • S. Carlo alle Quattro Fontane
    • S. Caterina a Magnanopoli
    • S. Caterina dei Funari
    • S. Caterina da Siena
    • S. Cecilia in Trastevere
    • Ss. Celso e Giuliano
    • S. M. in Monticelli
    • Ss. Claudio e Andrea
    • S. Clemente >
      • Cappella Castiglione
    • Ss. Cosma e Damiano
    • S. Crisogono
    • S. Costanza
    • S. Croce in Gerusalemme >
      • Chapel of St Helen
    • Ss. Domenico e Sisto
    • S. Dorotea
    • S. Eusebio
    • S. Eustachio
    • S. Francesco a Ripa >
      • Cappella Altieri
      • Cappella Rospigliosi-Pallavicini
    • S. Francesca Romana
    • S. Giacomo degli Spagnoli
    • S. Giorgio in Velabro
    • S. Giovanni a Porta Latina
    • S. Giovanni Decollato
    • S. Giovanni dei Fiorentini
    • S. Giovanni della Pigna
    • Ss. Giovanni e Paolo
    • S. Giovanni in Laterano >
      • Cappella Corsini
      • Cappella Lancellotti
    • S. Girolamo dei Croati
    • S. Girolamo della Carità >
      • Cappella Antamoro
      • Cappella Spada
    • S. Giuliano dei Fiamminghi
    • S. Giuseppe dei Falegnami
    • S. Gregorio Magno
    • S. Ignazio di Loyola
    • S. Ivo alla Sapienza
    • S. Lorenzo fuori le Mura
    • S. Lorenzo in Damaso
    • S. Lorenzo in Lucina
    • S. Lorenzo in Miranda
    • S. Lucia del Gonfalone
    • S. Luigi dei Francesi >
      • Cappella Contarelli
    • Ss. Luca e Martina
    • Ss. Marcellino e Pietro
    • S. Marcello al Corso
    • S. Marco
    • S. Maria ad Martyres
    • S. Maria ai Monti
    • S. Maria Annunziata
    • S. Maria degli Angeli
    • S. Maria dei Miracoli
    • S. Maria della Concezione
    • S. Maria del Popolo >
      • Cappella Cerasi
      • Cappella Chigi
    • S. Maria dei Sette Dolori
    • S. Maria del Priorato
    • S. Maria della Consolazione
    • S. Maria della Pace >
      • Chigi Chapel
      • Cloister of Bramante
    • S. Maria della Scala
    • S. Maria della Vittoria >
      • Cappella Cornaro
    • S. Maria delle Grazie
    • S. Maria dell' Anima
    • S. Maria dell' Orazione e Morte
    • S. Maria dell' Orto
    • S. Maria di Loreto
    • S. Maria in Aracoeli >
      • Cappella Bufalini
    • S. Maria in Aquiro
    • S. Maria in Campitelli
    • S. Maria in Cosmedin
    • S. Maria in Domnica
    • S. Maria in Monserrato
    • S. Maria in Montesanto
    • S. Maria in Traspontina
    • S. Maria in Trastevere >
      • Cappella Altemps
    • S. Maria in Trivio
    • S. Maria in Via
    • S. Maria in Via Lata
    • S. Maria Maddalena
    • S. Maria Maggiore >
      • Baptistery
      • Cappella Paolina
      • Cappella Sistina
    • S. Maria sopra Minerva >
      • Cappella Carafa
      • Chapel of the Annunciation
    • S. Maria Scala Coeli
    • S. Martino ai Monti
    • Ss. Nereo e Achilleo
    • S. Nicola da Tolentino
    • S. Nicola dei Lorenesi
    • S. Nicola in Carcere
    • Ss. Nome di Maria
    • S. Onofrio al Gianicolo
    • S. Pancrazio
    • S. Pantaleo
    • S. Paolo alla Regola
    • S. Paolo alle Tre Fontane
    • S. Paolo fuori le Mura
    • S. Pasquale Baylon
    • S. Pietro in Montorio
    • S. Pietro in Vincoli
    • S. Prassede
    • S. Prisca
    • S. Pudenziana
    • Ss. Quattro Coronati
    • S. Rita da Cascia
    • S. Rocco
    • S. Saba
    • S. Sabina >
      • Chapel of St Catherine
      • Chapel of St Hyacinth
    • S. Salvatore in Lauro
    • S. Salvatore in Onda
    • S. Sebastiano fuori le Mura >
      • Cappella Albani
    • S. Silvestro in Capite
    • S. Sisto Vecchio
    • S. Spirito in Sassia
    • S. Stanislao dei Polacchi
    • S. Stefano Rotondo
    • Ss Stimmate di San Francesco
    • Ss. Sudario dei Piemontesi
    • S. Susanna
    • Ss. Trinità degli Spagnoli
    • Ss. Trinità dei Pellegrini
    • Ss. Trinità di Monti
    • Ss. Vincenzo e Anastasio
    • Ss. Vincenzo e Anastasio
    • S. Vitale
  • Cloisters
  • Palatine
  • Forum
    • Arch of Septimius Severus
    • Arch of Titus
    • Basilica of Maxentius
    • Curia Julia
    • Temple of Antoninus Pius
    • Temple of Castor and Pollux
    • Temple of Saturn
    • Temple of Venus and Rome
    • Temple of Vespasian and Titus
    • Temple of Vesta
  • Ancient Monuments
    • Aqueducts
    • Ara Pacis
    • Arch of Constantine
    • Arch of Drusus
    • Arch of Gallienus
    • Arch of Janus
    • Arch of the Money-Changers
    • Aurelian Walls
    • Baths of Caracalla
    • Baths of Diocletian
    • Castel Sant' Angelo
    • Catacombs of Domitilla
    • Circus Maxentius
    • Circus Maximus
    • Colosseum
    • Column of Marcus Aurelius
    • Column of Trajan
    • Forum of Augustus
    • Forum of Trajan
    • Mausoleum of Augustus
    • Nymphaeum
    • Pantheon
    • Ponte Fabricio
    • Ponte Milvio
    • Ponte Rotto
    • Ponte Sant' Angelo
    • Porta Maggiore
    • Porta San Paolo
    • Porta San Sebastiano
    • Portico of Octavia
    • Pyramid of Cestius
    • Temple of Hadrian
    • Temple of Hercules
    • Temple of Jupiter
    • Temple of Portunus
    • Theatre of Balbus
    • Theatre of Marcellus
    • Theatre of Pompey
    • Tomb of Caecilia Metella
    • Via Appia
  • Obelisks
    • 'Minerveo' Obelisk
    • 'Flaminio' Obelisk
    • 'Matteiano' Obelisk
    • 'Lateran' Obelisk
    • 'Dogali' Obelisk
    • 'Macuteo' Obelisk
    • 'Solare' Obelisk
    • 'Vatican' Obelisk
    • 'Agonalis' Obelisk
    • 'Sallustiano' Obelisk
    • 'Quirinale' Obelisk
    • 'Esquiline' Obelisk
    • 'Pinciano' Obelisk
    • 'Mediceo' Obelisk
    • 'Torlonia' Obelisks
    • 'Mussolini' Obelisk
    • 'Marconi' Obelisk
  • Mosaics
    • Sant' Agnese fuori le Mura
    • Santa Cecilia in Trastevere
    • San Clemente
    • Santa Costanza
    • Santa Francesca Romana
    • San Lorenzo fuori le Mura
    • San Marco
    • Santa Maria in Domnica
    • Santa Maria in Trastevere
    • Santa Maria Maggiore
    • Santa Prassede >
      • San Zenone
    • Santa Pudenziana
    • Santo Stefano Rotondo
    • San Teodoro
    • San Venanzio
    • Santi Cosma e Damiano
    • Santi Nereo e Achilleo
  • Palaces
    • Palazzo Barberini
    • Palazzo dei Conservatori
    • Palazzo del Quirinale
    • Palazzo della Cancelleria
    • Palazzo della Consulta
    • Palazzo delle Esposizioni
    • Palazzo Farnese
    • Palazzo Farnesina
    • Palazzo di Giustizia
    • Palazzo Laterano
    • Palazzo Madama
    • Palazzo Spada
    • Palazzo Venezia
    • Palazzo Zuccari
    • Villa Giulia
    • Villa Farnesina
    • Villa Medici
  • Galleries & Museums
    • Baths of Diocletian
    • Capitoline Museums
    • Etruscan Museum
    • Galleria Borghese
    • Galleria Colonna
    • Galleria Doria-Pamphilj
    • Palazzo Altemps
    • Palazzo Massimo
  • Piazzas
    • Campo de' Fiori
    • Piazza dei Cavalieri di Malta
    • Piazza del Campidoglio
    • Piazza del Popolo
    • Piazza del Quirinale
    • Piazza della Repubblica
    • Piazza Farnese
    • Piazza Navona
    • Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II
  • Miscellaneous
    • A Calendar of Saints
    • A Literary Tour of Rome
    • Antico Caffè Greco
    • Babington's Tea Rooms
    • Barberini Bees
    • Borromini & the Baroque
    • Catacombs
    • Column of the Immaculate Conception
    • Domes
    • Equestrian Statues
    • EUR >
      • Museum of Roman Civilisation
    • Fasces
    • Flood Plaques
    • Galleria Sciarra
    • House of the Owls
    • Jewish Ghetto
    • Knights of Malta
    • Mithraism
    • Monumental Complex of S. Spirito in Sassia
    • Nolli Map of Rome
    • Ponte Sisto
    • Porta Pia
    • 'Protestant' Cemetery
    • Quartiere Coppedè
    • Scala Santa
    • Spanish Steps
    • Street Shrines
    • 'Talking' Palaces
    • 'Talking' Statues
    • Tiber Island
    • Views of Rome
    • Villa Borghese
    • Vittoriano
  • On This Day in Italy
    • January
    • February
    • March
    • April
    • May
    • June
    • July
    • August
    • September
    • October
    • November
    • December
  • The Bernini Trail
  • Baroque Sculptors
    • Alessandro Algardi
    • Pietro Bracci
    • Ercole Ferrata
    • Domenico Guidi
    • Pierre Le Gros
    • Giuseppe Mazzuoli
    • Antonio Raggi
    • Camillo Rusconi
    • Filippo della Valle
  • Florence
    • A Literary Tour
    • Anna Maria Luisa: Last of the Medici
    • Canons' Palace
    • Casa-Galleria Vichi
    • Column of Justice
    • Column of St Zenobius
    • Cosimo I de' Medici
    • Cosimo II de' Medici
    • Costanza Bonarelli
    • David With Fig Leaf
    • Elizabeth Barrett Browning
    • Equestrian Statue of Cosimo I de' Medici
    • Equestrian Statue of Ferdinando I de' Medici
    • Festina Lente
    • Flood Plaques
    • Fontana del Bacchino
    • Fontana dei Puttini
    • Fountain of Neptune
    • Fountains of the Marine Monsters
    • Gian Gastone de' Medici
    • Girolamo Savonarola
    • Images of the Annunciation
    • Little Devil
    • Monument to Cellini
    • Palazzo Bartolini-Salimbeni
    • Palazzo Bianca Cappello
    • Palazzo Fenzi
    • Palazzo Viviani
    • Perseus and Medusa
    • Piazza Santa Maria Novella
    • Pope Leo XI
    • Porta della Mandorla
    • Rape of the Sabine Woman
    • Santa Maria Novella
    • Statue of Dante
    • Theft of the Century
    • Torre del Arnolfo
    • Twelve Good Men
    • Villa Gamberaia
    • Wheel of the Innocents
    • 'Wine Windows'
  • Lazio
    • Bomarzo: Parco dei Mostri
    • Viterbo: Santa Rosa
  • Tuscany
    • Arezzo: Giorgio Vasari
    • Lucca: Puccini
    • Pistoia: Ospedale del Ceppo
    • Siena: The Balzana
    • Siena: The Palio
  • Venice
    • 421: Foundation of Venice
    • Acqua Alta
    • Bartolomeo Colleoni
    • Barque of Dante
    • Caffè Florian
    • Daniele Manin
    • Flagpoles
    • Giustina Rossi
    • Gondolas
    • Harry's Bar
    • Henry James
    • House of Three Eyes
    • Island of Lace
    • King Victor Emmanuel II
    • Map of Venice
    • Martinmas
    • Master of the House
    • Palazzo Contarini Fasan
    • Ponte Borgoloco
    • Ponte Chiodo
    • Punta del Dogana
    • Scacciadiavoli
    • Shrine of St Lucia
    • Sior Antonio Rioba
    • The 'Book Shitter'
    • The Lion's Mouth
    • Tommaso Rangone
    • Torcello
    • Venus
    • 'Viennese Oranges'
    • Wellheads
    • Winged Lions