On July 25th 1593, King Henry IV of France renounced Protestantism and converted to Catholicism. He is said to have declared that 'Paris vaut bien une messe' ('Paris is well worth a Mass'). In the courtyard of the church of Santa Maria Maggiore stands a monument that was erected at the behest of Pope Clement VIII (r. 1592-1605) to celebrate the king's conversion. The monument is made up of a granite column, which takes the form of an upturned barrel of a cannon, capped with a cross. The arms of the cross are decorated with a fleur-de-lys, the symbol of the French monarchy. What intrigues me most about it are the figures on the cross. In addition to Christ, there is also the Virgin Mary and Child, the only example of its kind that I know of in Rome, or elsewhere for that matter. Comments are closed.
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My name is David Lown and I am an art historian from Cambridge, England. Since 2001 I have lived in Italy, where I run private walking tours of Rome.
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